In the old center, tourists from Germany, Holland, the United States or Russia are crawling along the streets. They are recognizable by their smug attitude and their cameras. Besides them, the Latvians walks a lot - the city is not so big- loaded with bags of shopping. The most typical is the old Russian coming out from the market, dressed in a faded blouse and a shawl and carrying a shopping bag from another time. There are many cliches of the Soviet era in the streets of Vecriga (Old Riga), but at least the massive and grey buildings are not included. Place for the restored and flowered facades! Bright colors from pink to pale green, it looks like a movie set. The ride is pleasant, in the streets of Riga, there is a giant Christmas tree but also kiosks selling pell-mell hotdogs, newspapers or cigarettes. At a street corner, I met with a painter armed with canvas and brushes. 15:00 pm, the heat is overwhelming and the poor fellow has found refuge in the nearby church, cooler. Others enjoy the sun for siesta near the canal. The Monument of Freedom nested majestically on a square, while the church's dome, we can observe the largest organ in Europe.
The air is moist, the heat makes tired, and it was not until 10pm that the air becomes breathable. The city is alive again. In the streets of Riga, during the evening, the beggars are seeking a place to sleep - today, it will be the bus shelter - the lovers stroll along the river and the pop singers entertain customers of a restaurant.
I sink into the other center of Riga, the rich center and not the tourists' one. In between crumbling buildings. The scene is essential: no more cleaned houses or bins every 50 meters but green lawns and traditional wooden houses. In the middle of nowhere, bus stops. Nothing is far, everything seems lost. Abandoned beer cans, ice vendors, traditionnal musicians or living statue, the streets are filled with attractions.
It was during my walk in the Bolderaja neighborhood, mostly Russian-speaking, that the meetings were the strongest. Ex-Soviet city, it's gray, ugly, old and decrepit. The sun broke gently on the mixture of decadence and modernity. Three old selling flowers women, I take a picture them and what ecstasy when they see the result on the small screen: spasiva, spasiva. For once I understand, the language is still a barrier.
Some pictures.
