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Escapade at Central Market of Riga

Monday 19 th July 2010

When I travel, I also have with me a guidebook that serves as my pocket Bible ... finally more or less ... In the Lonely Planet, a trip to the central market in Riga - Centraltirgus - was highly recommended and even compared to a visit to the Louvre in Paris ... As a good tourist, I headed out early to watch some local authentications.



The earliest writings referring to the market of Riga are from the 14th century and refer to a market in the old city. In 1570, it moved closer to the Daugava river to facilitate transportation of goods. It's in the mid 17th century that the market is experiencing its golden age when Riga became the stronghold of the Swedish empire.

Since 1930, it occupies the same spot and Zeppelin buildings were made to serve as halls. Today it is a bustling mix of vegetables, butchers, florists and haberdashers. At the market you can find everything for everything. I even found an alternative to "pelo Catalan" (Catalan hair cut, short in front and sides and long, very long at the back). Some women had delight haircuts, trying to develop a mode of "half black and half white" or "spikes on the skull and behind frizz".

Apart from these hair remarks, I mostly found clues about Latvian cooking habits. Many vegetables are eaten, especially as the summer moved. A predominance of roots such as beets or celery, carrots, cucumbers and famous gurkis who are between cucumber and gherkin. I think even these pickles are actually used to make marinated malossol. The countryside moved to the city, the fruits fall from the tree and the potatoes come directly from the ground. No transition, directly sold from the producer. The merchants of blueberries and raspberries are plentiful. Here, we do not sell to the tray of 100gr but at 1 kg. Pure enjoyment and I licked my fingers blithely. I was also surprised by the number of grass and especially dill that was found on the shelves. The fragrant scents - to my nose - exotic, at once familiar and unknown.

Then I went for a walk in the hall of meat. Nothing original, just butchers wearing their white apron stained with blood spots waiting for customers to cut chops or a leg. The dairy section was very interesting. Since I arrived in Riga, I noticed the importance of dairy products in food, whether it's siers (cheese) or kefir (fermented sweet milk) or the biezpiens (cottage cheese) and ruguspiens (sour cream). All dishes are complemented and whether in the supermarket or market, the shelves offer in every imaginable form.

The last part of the market is a beautiful jumble of gaudy clothes, sandals, flowers and especially hardware where cookers buy  jars caps piece by piece!

My favorite moment was when I left before rejoining the Grands Boulevards, in the underground, a series of old women hawking socks and tighs. It's not easy to capture images, they hide or look away. Watching from afar, one remains between light and shadow, I no longer hesitate, I seize the moment. The tour ends with a beautiful shot.

Some pictures.

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