The nice bus driver drops me in the middle of nowhere. Believe me, I am well into Kulhdeega. I am looking for the village but I am unable to locate it as my map is too small scale. I finally discover a small sign which shows the Rastlaukums (main square).I am in a rutted driveway, wondering why really are Latvians going to Kuldiga. Where is the picturesque town with its bridge and waterfall? I am far from a fairy tale. At a new crossing, little by little I find out where I am and discover the campsite on the other side of the river Venta.
It is Sunday late afternoon, the sun sparkles on the water, Latvian tourists are having a field day on the banks of the river, I am happy to find that my initial impressions were a little harsh!
I begin by visiting the village with many wooden houses. Fortunately Kuldiga is too far from Riga, otherwise it would be mobbed with tourists. I am all alone. There are a few cars in front of the only hotel in the city, the shops are closed and streets are deserted. There is no noise, no movement, at every street corner I am waiting for something to happen. I better understand why so many period films were made here. The decor is perfect.
My walk takes me then to the ruins of the castle and back down slowly towards the waterfall, a point of interest in the city. Standing out between two arms of the river is the widest waterfall in Europe (249m) but with a height of only one or two meters. The fishermen rub shoulders with the children who are jumping into the cold water for their pleasure.
The river is also the place of rendezvous for salmon who then jump the waterfall and swim upstream. Unfortunately, I'ts not the right time of year and I can only imagine the salmon jumping in the river and taunting the other small fish ...
The next day I rent a bike and ride for twenty kilometres into the forest. The path is muddy, mosquitoes attack me when I stop and once again I am alone in the world. I feel so remote that I have almost forgotten its existence. No noise, no visual pollution, nothing, I'm deep in the countryside.
Along the way, I stop at the sand caves. Again, the area is deserted and to escape the mosquitoes, I plunge inside with a torch. It's cool, the ground is covered with sand, the labyrinth envelops me. So as not to become lost, I don’t go too far, I miss my Ariadne’s thread!
The tour continues, I spot a memorial commemorating the victims of the Nazis. I feel deeply moved by the stele, the surrounding damp groves emphasise my emotions.
I continue my journey and returns to Kuldiga. The walk ends, also my rural break, I start heading to Ventspils.
Photo album
