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Ventspils, a harbour on the Baltic

Tuesday 27 th July 2010

Ventspils, up north in Courland and on the Baltic coast is the next step of my journey. The town considered as "the most beautiful city of Latvia" is dotted with wooden houses and wide streets with flowers.
I'm starting to get used to the rural atmosphere and after a few detours to see the colorful attics, I meet with Janis, from the cultural center, for a guided tour of the city.

In front of the modern tourist office, we meet and after the usual introductions, we go ahead to the port of Ventspils, the largest in Latvia. Historically, it has always occupied a strategic position in trade in Northern Europe.

From the 12th century, the area, spared by ice in winter, attracts Course and from the 13th century to the 16th century, the powerful Hanseatic League merchants hold it A flourishing trade begins. The Soviets have understood and Ventspils becomes an industrial and oil zone.

These images are disgusting and cold but we are far from the clichés of gray towers and freighters steaming. Ventspils has kept its identity and its bucolic charm.

On the pier, along the docks, a flowerbed lays out for 1.5 km. Located for a few days it has to beat the world record for the largest flower in the world. Ventspils is now in the Guinness.

On the horizon, the Livonian castle stands. I expected an imposing mediaeval building, with towers and battlements. It is rather the opposite: the building is yellow and modern in appearance. It contains a small museum which is accessed through well-polished wooden stairs. The whole is not very authentic and sculptures of cows that dot the city interest me more.

Since 2002, Ventspils enjoys the patronage for Art International. This is a artistic project  for the development of creative contemporary urban art. The city is home to seven of twenty-six sculptures by Andris Vitolini. At the port, sitting on a bench near the shore or enthroned on a square, the cows are impressively and the few tourists are blithely photo taken in front.

After this artistic break, our steps lead us to Ostgals, the old part of town, near the beach. The pine, wooden houses and the air of another time are waiting for us. In this peaceful atmosphere, we reach the beach, hidden behind a dune.

The place is the haunt of kites, children playing beside the water and parents watching from afar. The wind blows, the storm is not far but the beach of Ventspils has a particular attraction. Fine sand, adorned with marine graffiti, warm water, only a few degrees more fail to make the beach paradise. But the bottom line is this: the simple state of happiness.

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