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Kolka, the splendid end of the world

Wednesday 28 th July 2010

Cape Kolka, both empty and full of meaning. An afternoon of bus is needed to join the northern-most point of Courland. Villages passe and the bus is getting empty, I'm finally the only one to get off in Kolka. The excitement grows, I'm coming soon Kolka, the highlight of my trip to Latvia.

It is impressive to see how much a place can attract you. These are just a few lines in the guide that convince me to go to the Cape. Desolate and full of history, Kolka meets my desires for freedom and peace.

Unlike in other cities I passed by, I knew that the meetings would be rare but the ubiquitous nature and the beauty of the place replace any human distraction.
The end of Latvia spreads majestically to my feet. On the horizon, the island of Saameraa stands. Estonia is not far but remains hidden.

To arrive at the Cape, I walk about twenty minutes along the beach. A mere camping site - a field of green grass and a tap - is located on the side of the Gulf of Riga and not on the Baltic Sea. I expect nothing, and yet I'm already imagining everything. 

The cape is the junction point between the Gulf and the sea and since immemorial time, this strategic trade is in the hands of the most powerful merchant. Livonian, then Germans, Swedish and finally the Soviets fought for the cape. By opening to the North Sea, Latvian waters meet and is also the place of many shipwrecks.

The waters are dangerous, the wind is strong and only its breath reminds us of the existence of life. In Cape Kolka, there are only pines and sand dunes stretching into the blue gray waters. I am simply overwhelmed by the beauty of the place.

After the storm, the sky is streaked with clouds that the sun makes orange. Military zone until the 90s and therefore forbidden to civilians, it has now regained its original function: to be a haven of peace.

With simple gestures, I sit on a tree trunk and enjoy time passes. Cape Kolka calls for reflection, it is a sumptuous and unique place. Only the bravest go there with strength and conviction that merit a detour on our way. The beauty and the pure essence of nature is revealed in all their splendor.

Cape Kolka remains a highlight of this epic Latvian trip.

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